![]() Smaller drill bits like these cost less than $30 but a hold saw can easily cost over $300. Use a 1/2″ drill bit to cut small holes around the edge of the circle you plan to cut. You’ll use a 4-inch hole saw for this with a hammer drill.ĭrillbit Saving Tip – Use Smaller 1/2″ Drill Bits First Before Using a 4″ Hole Saw Once the fan is connected to the power source, you’ll need to drill a hole through the slab foundation.Īs discussed above, this should be at least 8 inches away from an outer wall to avoid any foundation footers. Make sure that all connections are sealed properly and that the fan is grounded correctly. Ideally, this would be outside the home but often you may need to drill through the wall and connect to an indoor outlet. To do this, you’ll run an electric line from a nearby outlet or junction box. Now that the fan is installed, you’ll need to hook up the power. It also helps to keep hot or cold air from entering your home, saving you money on energy bills. The caulking creates an air-tight seal, preventing condensation from dripping onto the fan and potentially shorting it out. ![]() Lastly, finish adding vent pipe from the top of the fan, up along the wall, then up and over any gutters.įan Saving Tip – Caulk Connects to Prevent Condensation Dripping On the FanĪdding a caulking sealant around the connections between the vent pipe and fan is an often overlooked way to save energy and extend the longevity of your radon mitigation system. Step 3 – Install the Radon Vent Pipe and Fan Outsideīefore doing anything else inside the home, you’ll need to attach the radon vent pipe outside.įirst cut and slide in the pipe through the wall cut and attach a 90-degree elbow bend. This is best done from the outside.Īfter the hole is complete, clean up any excess dust and debris that may have been created during the process. Sometimes you’ll need to core through the outer wall of cinder blocks are involved. Once all of that is taken care of, use a 4-inch hole saw and carefully cut a 4-inch diameter hole in the exterior wall near where you’ve chosen for your radon mitigation system. You don’t want any surprises after you’ve cut! Step 2 – Cut Through the Wallīefore you start cutting through the wall, make sure to turn off your electricity and gas appropriately. Lastly, you’ll want to avoid any utilities that are running through the outer wall such as electrical, plumbing, and heating. An easy way to avoid that is by always choosing a location that’s at least 8-12 inches away from an outer wall. This is where you’ll cut a hole in the wall and install the pipe that will vent radon gas away from your living area.įor optimal results, you should also make sure that the area is not over the foundation footers. You’ll need to find a spot near an exterior wall on the lowest floor of your home, preferably in a hallway or closet. Can I Paint Over the Pipes of My Radon Mitigation System After It’s Installed? Step 1 – Choose a LocationĬhoosing the right location for your radon mitigation system is critical to its success.
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